What it is
Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Isohexadecane/Polysorbate 80 Copolymer is a ready-to-use liquid polymer system consisting of an anionic acrylate copolymer dispersed in isohexadecane (a branched-chain hydrocarbon emollient) with polysorbate 80 as a nonionic emulsifier. It functions as a rheology modifier and emulsion stabilizer capable of building viscosity across a wide pH range (5.5–12). Formulators use it cold-processable, adding it to the oil phase, forming an aqueous gel, or incorporating it during emulsification. Usage levels typically range from 0.5–2% in emulsions and 1–5% in gel-cream systems. It is compatible with UV filters, pigments, solvents, and heat-sensitive actives, making it popular in suncare, skincare, and color cosmetics.
Safety & warnings
The CIR concluded acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers are safe for use in cosmetics; maximum concentrations are approximately 3–4% in rinse-off products and up to 3% in leave-on products. Trace residuals of 1,4-dioxane (<1 ppm) and ethylene oxide (<0.2 ppm) may be present from the polysorbate 80 component, at levels considered non-significant. Polysorbate 80 was shown to be nonmutagenic in Ames and micronucleus tests. No evidence of significant skin irritation or sensitization at typical use concentrations.
Origin & sourcing
Fully synthetic; the acrylate copolymer component is produced by inverse emulsion polymerization. The polymer is dispersed in isohexadecane (a synthetic branched alkane) and polysorbate 80 (a fatty acid-derived ethoxylated sorbitan ester). The finished blend is supplied as a liquid with no solvents required. The process is designed to be solvent-free and preservative-free.
History
The Simulgel EG brand, commercialized by Seppic (Air Liquide group), popularized this polymer system in cosmetic formulation in the early 2000s. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel conducted a comprehensive safety assessment of acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers, publishing findings in 2017. The CIR concluded these polymers are safe as used in cosmetic formulations at established concentration limits.
Questions everyone asks
What does Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Isohexadecane/Polysorbate 80 Copolymer do in sunscreen formulas?
It acts as a thickener and emulsion stabilizer that keeps oil and water phases from separating, and is compatible with UV filters and pigments — making it a common texturizer in sunscreen creams and lotions.
Is this ingredient safe for sensitive skin?
The CIR Expert Panel has concluded that acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers are safe at typical cosmetic use concentrations. No significant irritation or sensitization has been reported, though individuals with known acrylate sensitivities should exercise caution.
What is Simulgel EG?
Simulgel EG is the commercial trade name for this polymer system, marketed by Seppic (Air Liquide group). It is a pre-formulated liquid blend that enables cold-process manufacturing and delivers a lightweight, smooth texture.
Is this ingredient vegan and palm-free?
Yes. The ingredient contains no animal-derived materials and is free from palm oil derivatives, making it suitable for vegan and palm-free cosmetic formulations.