Aspergillus/Hydrolyzed Collagen Ferment Filtrate — INCI reference

What it is

Aspergillus/Hydrolyzed Collagen Ferment Filtrate is the filtered liquid resulting from the fermentation of hydrolyzed collagen by Aspergillus mold species. During fermentation, Aspergillus enzymes (primarily proteases and peptidases) further break down collagen peptides into smaller fragments, amino acids such as glycine and proline, and bioactive metabolites. The resulting filtrate is rich in low-molecular-weight peptides and amino acids that can interact with skin proteins, supporting moisture retention and skin barrier function. Related Aspergillus ferment filtrates have been shown to upregulate aquaporin-3 (AQP3) expression, a key water channel in keratinocytes, enhancing epidermal hydration. The fermentation process also generates antioxidant compounds that may help protect skin from oxidative stress. The ingredient is used primarily in toners and serums, particularly in Korean beauty formulations.

Safety & warnings

Aspergillus oryzae used in this ingredient does not produce carcinogenic aflatoxins, distinguishing it from pathogenic Aspergillus species. Animal-derived collagen substrates (bovine or porcine) may be a consideration for those avoiding animal-derived ingredients. Individuals with known collagen or fungal sensitivities should exercise caution. No significant safety concerns have been identified for typical cosmetic use concentrations. As with all fermentation-derived ingredients, batch-to-batch compositional variation may occur.

Origin & sourcing

Produced by fermenting hydrolyzed collagen (a protein derived from animal connective tissue, typically bovine or porcine) with Aspergillus mold species, most commonly Aspergillus oryzae (koji mold). Aspergillus oryzae, a domesticated filamentous fungus with a long history of safe use in East Asian food fermentation (sake, miso, soy sauce), secretes proteolytic enzymes that further cleave collagen peptides into smaller, more bioavailable fragments. The fermentation broth is then filtered to yield the liquid filtrate used in cosmetic formulations.

History

Aspergillus oryzae has been used in East Asian fermentation for over a millennium, traditionally in food production. Its application in cosmetics grew from the broader fermented skincare trend popularized by Japanese and Korean beauty industries in the 2000s and 2010s. Ferment filtrate ingredients derived from microorganism-substrate combinations became increasingly codified in INCI nomenclature, and the EU CosIng database lists Aspergillus/Hydrolyzed Collagen Ferment Filtrate as a recognized cosmetic ingredient with a skin conditioning function.

Questions everyone asks

What does Aspergillus/Hydrolyzed Collagen Ferment Filtrate do in skincare?

It acts primarily as a skin conditioning agent and humectant, helping the skin retain moisture. The fermentation process breaks collagen into small peptides and amino acids that interact with skin proteins, and related ferment filtrates have been shown to upregulate water channels (aquaporin-3) in s

Is Aspergillus safe to use in cosmetics?

The Aspergillus species used in cosmetic fermentation — primarily Aspergillus oryzae (koji mold) — is considered safe. Unlike some pathogenic Aspergillus species, A. oryzae does not produce aflatoxins and has a long history of safe use in food fermentation.

Is this ingredient vegan?

No, it is not vegan. The substrate — hydrolyzed collagen — is derived from animal connective tissue (typically bovine or porcine). The Aspergillus fermentation step is microbial, but the starting material is animal-derived.

How does fermentation improve hydrolyzed collagen for skincare?

Fermentation by Aspergillus further cleaves collagen peptides into smaller molecular-weight fragments, amino acids, and bioactive compounds that may penetrate the skin surface more readily.