What it is
This is a high-molecular-weight, branched ester formed by reacting dimer dilinoleic acid with behenyl, isostearyl, and phytosteryl alcohols. Its bulky, oil-soluble structure makes it a thickening emollient that adds body to anhydrous and oil phases and creates a smooth, non-greasy cushion. In sun sticks and mineral creams it is valued for dispersing and wetting pigments and inorganic UV filters and for improving payoff and adhesion.
Safety & warnings
This is a large, non-volatile ester that stays on the skin surface and is generally considered low-irritation and low-sensitization. It is an oil-phase emollient, so very acne-prone users may prefer to monitor heavy use; it is not a known fragrance allergen.
Origin & sourcing
Synthetic ester, though built in part from fatty acids and sterols of plant origin (dimer linoleic acid derived from vegetable oils, phytosterols). It is manufactured by esterification.
Questions everyone asks
Why is this ingredient used in sun sticks?
Its thick, emollient texture binds pigments and mineral filters and adds a smooth, cushiony glide, which suits balm and stick formats.
Is it natural or synthetic?
It is a synthetic ester, but it is made in part from plant-derived fatty acids and sterols.