What it is
Centella asiatica extract is derived from a herbaceous creeping perennial in the Apiaceae family, widely known as gotu kola or, in skincare, cica. Its activity is attributed to pentacyclic triterpenoid compounds and their glycosides, chiefly asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid, and madecassic acid, collectively called centellosides. In cosmetics these compounds are associated with soothing and antioxidant effects, and the extract is also reported to support skin hydration and conditioning. It is a common feature of formulas marketed for calming or comforting the skin.
Safety & warnings
Centella asiatica extract is generally regarded as gentle and is frequently chosen for sensitive-skin and post-irritation formulas. As a botanical, it is not entirely free of risk: documented cases of allergic contact dermatitis have been linked to topical Centella in susceptible individuals, so a patch test is reasonable for those with reactive or allergy-prone skin. Reports of liver-related effects are associated with oral consumption of concentrated supplements rather than ordinary topical cosmetic use.
Origin & sourcing
The ingredient is a plant-derived extract obtained from Centella asiatica, which is native to tropical and temperate wetland and swampy regions across Asia, Africa, Australia, and the Pacific. The aerial parts and leaves are processed, typically by extraction into water, glycol, or other solvents, to concentrate the triterpenoid compounds for cosmetic use. The same plant is also consumed as a food and herbal tea in several Asian cuisines.
History
Centella asiatica has a long record in traditional medicine, where it has been used to address minor wounds and various dermatological conditions, although reviewers note that rigorous clinical proof of many traditional claims is limited. Its established use in soothing skin preparations carried over into modern cosmetics, where it became widely popular under the 'cica' name.
Questions everyone asks
What is cica in skincare?
Cica is shorthand for Centella asiatica, the gotu kola plant; its extract is used as a soothing, antioxidant skin-conditioning ingredient.
What are the active compounds in Centella asiatica?
Its activity comes from triterpenoids and their glycosides, mainly asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid, and madecassic acid.
Is Centella asiatica extract good for sensitive skin?
It is widely used in calming, sensitive-skin formulas, though, as with any botanical, allergic contact dermatitis is possible in some people.