What it is
This ingredient is a lauroyl glutamic acid derivative esterified with cholesterol, behenyl alcohol, and octyldodecanol, combining amino-acid and sterol-based building blocks. It is best known as a lipophilic gelling and structuring agent that can thicken oils into clear or soft gels while imparting a cushioned, conditioned skin feel. It is often used in gentle, fragrance-free formulations, including sensitive-skin sunscreens.
Safety & warnings
This glutamate-based lipid is associated with gentle, sensitive-skin formulations and is generally well tolerated, with low irritancy and sensitization potential at typical use levels.
Origin & sourcing
Synthetic; built from glutamic acid (an amino acid), lauric acid, cholesterol, and the fatty alcohols behenyl alcohol and octyldodecanol.
Questions everyone asks
What is it used for?
It is mainly used to gel and thicken oil phases while giving a soft, conditioned skin feel, often in gentle or sensitive-skin products.
Is it derived from amino acids?
In part. It is built on lauroyl glutamic acid, an amino-acid derivative, combined with cholesterol and fatty alcohols.