What it is
Di(Cholesteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl) Lauroyl Glutamate is a synthetic ester derived from L-glutamic acid (an amino acid), lauric acid (a fatty acid), and three fatty alcohols: cholesterol, behenol, and 2-octyldodecanol. At room temperature it exists as a petrolatum-like wax with a melting point of 36–39°C, allowing it to melt and spread smoothly upon contact with skin at body temperature. It is noted for its high water-holding capacity and high moisture permeability: it helps retain moisture within the stratum corneum while still permitting excess perspiration to evaporate freely. Additional functional benefits include pigment dispersibility in oils, antistatic properties, and emulsion-stabilising effects. It is soluble in common cosmetic oils and is used across skincare creams, lotions, haircare conditioners, and makeup products including foundations, lipsticks, and pressed powders. The ingredient is listed in the EU CosIng registry and China's IECIC list.
Safety & warnings
No significant safety concerns have been identified in publicly available literature. No GHS hazard classifications are assigned. The ingredient is not known to be a common allergen, sensitiser, or comedogenic agent. As with any amino acid-derived ester, individuals with known glutamate or fatty alcohol sensitivities should exercise caution, though such reactions are rarely reported in cosmetic use.
Origin & sourcing
Synthesised from L-glutamic acid, lauric acid, cholesterol, behenol (docosan-1-ol), and 2-octyldodecanol through esterification/amidation chemistry. All starting materials can be derived from plant or animal sources; commercial grades (e.g., Eldew CL-301 by Ajinomoto) are manufactured via synthetic organic chemistry.
History
Developed and commercialised by Ajinomoto Co., Inc. under the trade name Eldew CL-301 as part of their acyl amino acid ester series of cosmetic emollients. The ingredient is registered in the EU CosIng database (EC Number 415-370-2) and China's IECIC list, reflecting regulatory acceptance in major global cosmetic markets.
Questions everyone asks
What makes Di(Cholesteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl) Lauroyl Glutamate different from a standard emollient oil?
Unlike typical liquid emollient oils, this ingredient is a wax-like solid at room temperature that melts precisely at skin temperature (36–39°C). This gives it a unique sensory profile — it spreads easily on contact and provides both occlusive protection and high moisture permeability rather than si
Is this ingredient derived from animals?
The cholesterol component can be of animal origin (typically lanolin-derived), so the ingredient may not be suitable for vegan formulations. Plant-derived alternatives in the same Ajinomoto Eldew series use phytosterols instead of cholesterol.
What types of products contain this ingredient?
It is used in a wide range of cosmetic formulations, including facial creams and lotions, body care products, hair conditioners, foundations, lipsticks, eye makeup, and pressed powder compacts.
Is Di(Cholesteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl) Lauroyl Glutamate approved for use in Europe and China?
Yes. It is listed in the EU CosIng cosmetic ingredient database (EC 415-370-2) and on China's IECIC (Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China), confirming regulatory acceptance in both regions.