Di(Octyldodecyl/Phytosteryl/Behenyl) Lauroyl Glutamate — INCI reference

What it is

Di(Octyldodecyl/Phytosteryl/Behenyl) Lauroyl Glutamate is a mixed ester formed from lauroyl glutamic acid and three fatty alcohols — octyldodecanol, phytosterol, and behenyl alcohol. It appears as a colourless-to-yellow soft wax. Its molecular architecture closely resembles that of type III ceramides found in the skin's intercellular lipid lamellae, giving it strong affinity for both skin and hair. In formulations it imparts a rich, non-greasy feel and supports moisture retention by reinforcing the stratum corneum lipid barrier. The ingredient is used across skin care, hair care, makeup, and sun care products, where it can also function as a pigment dispersant and contribute to emulsion stability.

Safety & warnings

The CIR Expert Panel assessed Phytosteryl Glutamates and found them safe for cosmetic use. No significant sensitization, irritation, or comedogenic concerns have been reported for this ingredient in published data. It is derived from amino acid and plant-based sources, and no special regulatory restrictions apply in the EU, US, or Asian markets.

Origin & sourcing

Synthesized from L-glutamic acid — an amino acid produced via fermentation by Ajinomoto — esterified with natural fatty alcohols: phytosterol (plant-derived sterol), behenyl alcohol (C22 fatty alcohol from plant waxes), and octyldodecanol (branched C20 alcohol). The process combines biotechnology-derived amino acid feedstocks with plant-based fatty alcohols, resulting in a nature-derived but synthetically assembled ester.

History

Developed by Ajinomoto Co., Inc. as part of their Eldew series of amino acid-based emollients for cosmetics. Commercialized under the trade name Eldew PS-306/PS-306R, it has been registered in CosIng (the EU cosmetic ingredient database) and assessed for safety by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel as part of their 2023 review of Phytosteryl Glutamates, which concluded the ingredient class is safe as used in cosmetics.

Questions everyone asks

What makes Di(Octyldodecyl/Phytosteryl/Behenyl) Lauroyl Glutamate different from ceramides?

It is not a ceramide but a ceramide-like ester with a similar molecular geometry. It forms lamellar liquid crystal structures in the skin's intercellular lipid layer comparable to type III ceramides, which explains its barrier-supporting and moisturizing efficacy.

Is this ingredient safe for sensitive skin?

Based on available safety data, including a 2023 CIR assessment of Phytosteryl Glutamates, the ingredient is considered safe for cosmetic use. No notable irritation or sensitization findings have been recorded, and it lacks known allergens in its structure.

Why is it used in sunscreen and makeup products?

Aside from its emollient and barrier-repair benefits, it functions as an effective pigment dispersant, helping distribute sunscreen filters and colorants more evenly in formulations and improving spreadability.

Who manufactures this ingredient commercially?

Ajinomoto Health & Nutrition (AminoScience division) markets it under the Eldew PS-306 and PS-306R trade names. Ajinomoto leverages its amino acid fermentation expertise to produce the glutamic acid building block.