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Ingredient · INCI reference

Di(Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl) Lauroyl Glutamate

Di(Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl) Lauroyl Glutamate is an amino acid-derived emollient used in cosmetics to condition skin and hair, reinforce the lipid barrier, and improve texture by forming ceramide-like lamellar liquid crystals between skin cells.

Di(Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl) Lauroyl Glutamate

What it is

Di(Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl) Lauroyl Glutamate is an ester formed by combining lauroyl glutamic acid (derived from lauric acid and the amino acid L-glutamic acid) with phytosterols and octyldodecanol. Its molecular architecture closely resembles type III ceramides, enabling it to form lamellar liquid crystals within skin's intercellular spaces. This bilayer structure reinforces the skin's lipid barrier, reduces transepidermal moisture loss, and supports recovery of damaged or rough skin. In hair care it integrates into the hair cell-membrane complex to condition and repair. The ingredient is oil-soluble, used at 0.1–5% depending on application, and provides a light, non-sticky skin feel. It is Ecocert certified, highly biodegradable, and considered suitable for all skin types.

Safety & warnings

Considered low hazard by cosmetic safety databases. Ecocert certified and non-comedogenic. No known significant allergen, irritant, or sensitization concerns reported. The EU CosIng database lists it with COSING REF No. 59399. Contains 0.01% tocopherol as a stabilizer in the PS-203R trade form. Generally well tolerated by all skin types.

Origin & sourcing

Derived from plant and amino acid sources: lauroyl glutamic acid is synthesized from L-glutamic acid (a fermentation-derived amino acid) and lauric acid (typically from coconut or palm oil), then esterified with phytosterols (plant sterol mixture) and octyldodecanol (a fatty alcohol). Developed and commercialized by Ajinomoto Co., Inc. (Japan), leveraging their expertise in amino acid chemistry.

History

Ajinomoto developed the ELDEW series of amino acid-based emollients based on their research into skin intercellular lipid structures and the ceramide bilayer model. A related ELDEW product (CL-301) was referenced in a 1990s lipstick patent (US5690918), indicating the product line was established by that decade. The PS-203 and PS-203R variants became widely adopted in luxury and mass-market cosmetics globally.

Questions everyone asks

What makes Di(Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl) Lauroyl Glutamate different from regular emollients?

Unlike simple occlusive emollients, it forms lamellar liquid crystals that structurally mimic ceramides in the skin barrier, allowing it to integrate into intercellular lipid layers and actively support barrier repair rather than just coating the surface.

Is this ingredient natural or synthetic?

It is derived from natural raw materials — plant phytosterols, fermentation-derived L-glutamic acid, and fatty acids from vegetable oils — and is Ecocert certified as a naturally derived ingredient.

What product types commonly use this ingredient?

It appears in lip balms and lip oils, facial moisturizers and serums, eye creams, hair conditioners, and color cosmetics such as foundations and lipsticks, typically at 0.1–5% depending on the formulation.

Is it safe for sensitive or acne-prone skin?

It is considered non-comedogenic and suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin. No significant irritation or sensitization concerns have been identified in available safety assessments.

Sources & references

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