What it is
Dipentaerythrityl Polyhydroxystearate is a synthetic ester formed from polyhydroxystearic acid (a polymer of 12-hydroxystearic acid) and dipentaerythritol (a dimer of pentaerythritol). It appears as a yellow liquid and is used at concentrations of 0.5–5% in cosmetic formulations. The ingredient functions primarily as an emollient, softening and smoothing the skin by forming a conditioning film on the surface. It also enhances the stability of water-in-oil emulsions, aids in dispersing pigments in color cosmetics such as foundations and powders, and can reduce frizz in hair care products. Its film-forming properties contribute to improved skin texture and formula performance. It is found in a wide range of products including foundations, lip treatments, cleansing oils, serums, and cream formulations from brands such as Clinique, Estée Lauder, and MAC.
Safety & warnings
Dipentaerythrityl Polyhydroxystearate is considered low hazard by EWG Skin Deep, with low scores for cancer risk, allergenicity, immunotoxicity, and developmental/reproductive toxicity. The CIR Expert Panel has found polyhydroxystearic acid esters to be safe at typical use concentrations (0.5–5%). No significant irritation, sensitization, or comedogenic concerns have been reported in the literature for this ingredient. It is generally well tolerated in cosmetic formulations.
Origin & sourcing
Dipentaerythrityl Polyhydroxystearate is a fully synthetic ester produced through chemical esterification of polyhydroxystearic acid with dipentaerythritol. Polyhydroxystearic acid is itself derived from 12-hydroxystearic acid, which is obtained from the hydrogenation of castor oil (from Ricinus communis seeds). Dipentaerythritol is a synthetic polyol. The final ester is manufactured via controlled condensation chemistry in industrial settings.
History
Dipentaerythrityl Polyhydroxystearate belongs to a class of polyhydroxystearic acid esters that gained use in cosmetics during the late 20th century as formulators sought multifunctional emollients capable of improving texture and emulsion stability. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has evaluated the safety of polyhydroxystearic acid and its esters, concluding this ingredient class is safe in the present practices of use and concentration in cosmetics. The ingredient is listed in the EU CosIng database as a permitted cosmetic ingredient.
Questions everyone asks
What does Dipentaerythrityl Polyhydroxystearate do in skincare products?
It acts as an emollient and skin conditioner, forming a light film on the skin surface that softens texture and helps retain moisture. It also stabilizes water-in-oil emulsions and disperses pigments in color cosmetics.
Is Dipentaerythrityl Polyhydroxystearate safe to use in cosmetics?
Yes. It is rated low hazard by EWG Skin Deep and the CIR Expert Panel has concluded that polyhydroxystearic acid esters, including this ingredient, are safe at typical cosmetic use concentrations of 0.5–5%.
Is Dipentaerythrityl Polyhydroxystearate natural or synthetic?
It is synthetic. It is produced by chemically esterifying dipentaerythritol (a synthetic polyol) with polyhydroxystearic acid, though the stearic acid component can be derived from castor oil.
In what types of products is Dipentaerythrityl Polyhydroxystearate found?
It appears in a wide range of cosmetics including foundations, face powders, lip treatments, cleansing oils, serums, moisturizers, and sunscreen formulations, typically at 0.5–5% concentration.