Dipropylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate — INCI reference

What it is

Dipropylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate is a diester formed from dipropylene glycol and a blend of caprylic acid (C8) and capric acid (C10). It is closely related to the more commonly listed Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, differing in the use of the dipropylene glycol backbone. The ingredient is a light, non-greasy liquid that imparts a smooth, velvety skin feel in leave-on and rinse-off formulations. It functions as an emollient, skin-conditioning agent, and solvent, and is particularly valued in sunscreen and makeup formulations for its ability to disperse and solubilize pigments and UV-filter actives. It spreads easily on skin and supports good product spreadability without an oily residue.

Safety & warnings

The propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate class has been assessed by the CIR Expert Panel and found to cause minimal to no skin irritation, with negative comedogenicity in standard testing. No significant allergen, sensitization, or toxic concerns have been identified at concentrations used in cosmetics. Suitable for most skin types including sensitive skin. Not a known comedogen.

Origin & sourcing

Produced by esterification of dipropylene glycol with caprylic acid (C8, derived from coconut or palm kernel oil) and capric acid (C10, similarly plant-derived). The resulting diester is a synthetic ingredient, though its fatty acid components are predominantly of natural vegetable origin.

History

Propylene glycol fatty acid diesters have been used in cosmetics since at least the 1980s. The related Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate was formally assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel, which published a safety report in 1999 concluding these esters are safe as used in cosmetics. The dipropylene glycol variant shares the same functional and safety profile as its propylene glycol counterpart.

Questions everyone asks

What does Dipropylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate do in a sunscreen formula?

It acts as a lightweight emollient and solvent that helps dissolve and evenly disperse UV-filter actives and pigments throughout the formula, contributing to good spreadability and a non-greasy skin feel.

Is Dipropylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate the same as Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate?

They are closely related but distinct INCI names. Both are diesters of C8-C10 fatty acids; the dipropylene glycol variant uses a slightly longer glycol backbone. They share very similar functional and safety profiles.

Is this ingredient safe for sensitive skin?

Based on CIR safety data for the closely related propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate class, these esters show minimal to no skin irritation and negligible comedogenicity, making them generally suitable for sensitive skin.

Is Dipropylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate natural or synthetic?

It is a synthetic ester, although its fatty acid components (caprylic and capric acids) are typically derived from natural sources such as coconut or palm kernel oil.