Eryngium Maritimum Callus Culture Extract — INCI reference

What it is

Eryngium Maritimum Callus Culture Extract is derived from callus tissue cultures of Eryngium maritimum (sea holly), a coastal perennial plant in the Apiaceae family native to European and Mediterranean shorelines. The extract is obtained by culturing plant callus cells in liquid medium, then filtering and concentrating the resulting culture media. Its metabolite profile includes lipids, organoheterocyclic compounds, and organic acids; rosmarinic acid is a key active compound contributing antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity. In vitro and clinical studies have shown the extract supports filaggrin expression (aiding skin barrier integrity), exhibits antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus aureus and Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and improves skin moisture retention and density. It is used at concentrations of 0.5–5% in formulations such as serums, essences, creams, and cleansers.

Safety & warnings

No specific allergens or irritants have been flagged for this extract in the EU CosIng database. Clinical testing with the encapsulated extract reported no adverse reactions among participants. As with other plant-derived extracts from the Apiaceae family, individuals with known sensitivities to plants in this family should exercise caution. No comedogenicity concerns have been reported in available literature.

Origin & sourcing

Derived from callus tissue cultures of Eryngium maritimum, a stress-tolerant coastal plant found on sand dunes and shingles along European and Mediterranean coastlines. Callus cells are cultivated in industrial-scale bioreactor systems under sterile, controlled conditions without pesticides or fertilizers. The culture medium is filtered and processed to concentrate active metabolites, yielding a reproducible, environmentally sustainable extract independent of wild plant harvesting.

History

Eryngium maritimum has a long history of traditional medicinal use in Europe; its roots were historically candied and used as remedies for digestive complaints, documented as far back as Dioscorides. The plant's natural resilience to harsh coastal conditions made it of interest for cosmetic biotechnology. Application of plant cell culture technology to produce a standardized callus extract for cosmetic use is a relatively recent development, listed as a cosmetic ingredient in the EU CosIng database. Peer-reviewed research published in 2025 investigated the extract's skin delivery via liposomal encapsulation, supporting its emerging status as an active ingredient.

Questions everyone asks

What makes sea holly callus culture extract different from a conventional sea holly plant extract?

The callus culture process grows plant cells in a controlled bioreactor environment, eliminating pesticide residues and enabling consistent, year-round production without harvesting wild plants.

What skin benefits does this ingredient offer?

Research shows it supports skin barrier integrity by promoting filaggrin expression, provides antioxidant protection, has antibacterial properties, and improves skin moisture and density. Studies report significant improvements in hydration and skin elasticity with topical application.

Is this ingredient safe for sensitive skin?

Clinical studies have reported no adverse reactions. However, Eryngium maritimum belongs to the Apiaceae (carrot) family, so those with hypersensitivity to plants in this family should patch-test before use. No irritant or allergen flags appear in the EU CosIng or COSMILE databases.

At what concentration is this ingredient typically used in cosmetics?

It is typically formulated at 0.5–5% concentration in products such as serums, essence waters, creams, and cleansers.

Sources & references

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