What it is
This ingredient is a mixed ester formed by reacting glycerin with behenic acid, isostearic acid, and eicosanedioic (a long-chain diacid). The combination of straight-chain and branched fatty acids gives it useful structuring and gelling behavior in anhydrous and oil-rich systems. In sunscreens and color products it helps build body, control viscosity, and stabilize the oil phase.
Safety & warnings
As a high-molecular-weight fatty-acid ester it is generally regarded as well tolerated and non-sensitizing at cosmetic use levels. It is not a listed fragrance allergen.
Origin & sourcing
A synthetic ester built from fatty acids and a diacid that may be of plant or petrochemical origin; the finished material is manufactured by esterification with glycerin.
Questions everyone asks
Why is this ingredient used in sun creams?
It thickens and structures the oil phase, helping the product hold a stable, even texture and stay uniform during use.
Is it an oil or a wax-like ingredient?
It is a glyceryl ester that behaves like a gelling or structuring agent, contributing body rather than acting as a simple fluid oil.