What it is
Glycyrrhetinic acid is the aglycone (the sugar-free core) of glycyrrhizin, the principal saponin found in the roots of Glycyrrhiza species such as licorice. In cosmetic formulations it is valued for its calming, comforting effect on skin that feels irritated or stressed, which makes it a common addition to sunscreens and other leave-on products aimed at sensitive skin. It is typically used at low concentrations as a conditioning and soothing additive rather than as a functional base ingredient.
Safety & warnings
Glycyrrhetinic acid is generally well tolerated at the low levels used in cosmetics and is commonly chosen specifically for products targeting sensitive or easily irritated skin. As with any botanically derived compound, isolated reports of individual sensitivity are possible, but it is not a recognized common fragrance allergen and is not an oil, so comedogenicity is not a typical concern.
Origin & sourcing
It is a plant-derived material obtained from the roots and rhizomes of licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra and related species), where it occurs as part of the glycoside glycyrrhizin and is released by hydrolysis. Purified material is then standardized for cosmetic use.
History
Licorice root has a long history of traditional topical use for soothing skin, and glycyrrhetinic acid was identified and characterized as its active triterpenoid constituent, after which it was adopted in modern cosmetics as a purified calming ingredient.
Questions everyone asks
What is glycyrrhetinic acid used for in sunscreen?
It is added in small amounts as a soothing, skin-conditioning agent to help products feel comfortable on sensitive or reactive skin.
Is glycyrrhetinic acid the same as licorice extract?
No. It is a single purified triterpenoid compound derived from licorice root, whereas licorice extract is a complex mixture of many constituents.