What it is
Glycyrrhetinyl stearate is formed by esterifying glycyrrhetinic acid, a triterpenoid obtained from licorice root, with stearic acid. The resulting oil-compatible ester is used in cosmetic formulations as a skin-conditioning and soothing ingredient and is more lipophilic than the parent acid, making it easier to incorporate into anhydrous and emulsion phases. It is a common component of Japanese skin care formulas.
Safety & warnings
Glycyrrhetinic acid derivatives are generally well tolerated and are used at low levels for their conditioning effect. As with any plant-derived ingredient, sensitivity is possible in individuals reactive to licorice constituents.
Origin & sourcing
Semi-synthetic. It is made from glycyrrhetinic acid, which is derived from licorice root, combined with stearic acid.
Questions everyone asks
Where does glycyrrhetinyl stearate come from?
It is made by combining glycyrrhetinic acid, a compound from licorice root, with stearic acid to form an oil-soluble ester.
Why is it used instead of plain glycyrrhetinic acid?
The stearate ester is more oil-compatible, which makes it easier to blend into creams and oil-based portions of a formula.