Glycyrrhiza Glabra Bark Extract — INCI reference

What it is

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Bark Extract is derived from the bark of the licorice plant (Glycyrrhiza glabra), a perennial legume native to West Asia, the Mediterranean, and North Africa. The extract contains bioactive compounds including glycyrrhizin, flavonoids (such as liquiritin and glabridin), triterpenoids, and polyphenols. These constituents contribute to the ingredient's skin-soothing, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and mild skin-brightening properties. In cosmetics, it is used in serums, creams, toners, and other skincare formulations to calm irritation, even skin tone, and defend against oxidative stress. The bark shares many phytochemicals found in the root but may differ in compound concentration. The ingredient is non-comedogenic and has demonstrated good skin tolerability in safety assessments.

Safety & warnings

Glycyrrhiza glabra extracts are generally well tolerated on skin. HET-CAM testing indicates the extract is non-irritating to epithelial tissues. Heavy metals in properly prepared extracts fall below WHO detection limits. Oral ingestion of large quantities of glycyrrhizin can cause hypertension and hypokalemia, but dermal penetration of glycyrrhizin from topical products is low, limiting systemic exposure. Individuals with known licorice or legume allergies should patch test. Avoid use on broken or severely compromised skin without professional guidance.

Origin & sourcing

Glycyrrhiza glabra is a herbaceous perennial plant growing to about 1 metre in height, cultivated mainly in Turkey, Greece, Iran, Iraq, and Central Asia. The bark (outer stem/woody tissue) is harvested and processed via solvent extraction to yield a concentrated botanical extract rich in triterpenoid saponins, flavonoids, and polyphenolic compounds.

History

Licorice has been used medicinally and in food for thousands of years across the Mediterranean, Middle East, and Asia. Its cosmetic use gained recognition in the late 20th century when researchers identified glabridin and glycyrrhizin as active skin-brightening and anti-inflammatory agents. The CIR Expert Panel reviewed Glycyrrhiza glabra-derived cosmetic ingredients and concluded they are safe for use in cosmetics at reported concentrations. The FDA lists licorice root and rhizome as Generally Recognized as Safe (GRAS) for food use.

Questions everyone asks

What is Glycyrrhiza Glabra Bark Extract and how does it differ from root extract?

It is an extract from the bark (outer woody tissue) of the licorice plant, Glycyrrhiza glabra. It contains many of the same bioactive compounds as root extract—glycyrrhizin, flavonoids, and triterpenoids—but concentrations may vary depending on the plant part and processing method.

What does Glycyrrhiza Glabra Bark Extract do for skin?

It soothes irritation and redness through anti-inflammatory glycyrrhizin, provides antioxidant protection via polyphenols and flavonoids, and can mildly brighten skin tone by influencing melanin production pathways through compounds like glabridin.

Is Glycyrrhiza Glabra Bark Extract safe for sensitive skin?

Yes, safety assessments including HET-CAM testing show the extract causes no irritation to epithelial tissues and has good biocompatibility. It is non-comedogenic and suitable for sensitive and reactive skin types when used in properly formulated products.

Is this ingredient regulated for cosmetic use?

Yes. Licorice-derived cosmetic ingredients are recognized by the EU CosIng database with approved functions including skin conditioning, soothing, and bleaching. The CIR Expert Panel has also reviewed these ingredients and found them safe for cosmetic use at concentrations used in practice.

Sources & references

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