What it is
Hydrogenated Brassica Campestris Seed Oil is derived from rapeseed (Brassica campestris) by extracting the seed oil and then subjecting it to hydrogenation, a process that adds hydrogen gas in the presence of a catalyst to convert unsaturated fatty acids into saturated ones. This transforms the liquid oil into a semi-solid or solid fat with improved stability and shelf life. In cosmetic formulations, it functions as an emollient that fills gaps between skin cells to smooth texture and reduce water loss, and as an occlusive agent that forms a barrier on the skin surface. Its semi-solid consistency also makes it valuable as a viscosity controller and structuring agent in balms, sticks, and solid lotions. The oil contains beneficial fatty acids including omega-9 erucic acid, as well as vitamin E and sinapinic acid, contributing to its skin-conditioning properties.
Safety & warnings
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel assessed plant-derived fatty acid oils including hydrogenated rapeseed oil and concluded they are safe as used in cosmetic formulations. The ingredient is non-toxic and considered low-hazard. Individuals with known rapeseed or canola oil allergies should exercise caution. No significant comedogenic, irritant, or sensitization concerns have been identified in the published literature for the hydrogenated form.
Origin & sourcing
Derived from the seeds of Brassica campestris (rapeseed/canola), an annual plant in the Brassicaceae family widely cultivated across Asia, Europe, and North America. Seeds are cold-pressed or solvent-extracted to yield rapeseed oil, which is then refined and hydrogenated using hydrogen gas and a nickel catalyst to produce a hardened, semi-solid fat suitable for cosmetic use.
History
Rapeseed has been cultivated for millennia in Asia and Europe as a cooking oil source. Industrial hydrogenation of vegetable oils was developed in the early 20th century. The ingredient is listed in the EU CosIng database and the CIR Expert Panel included hydrogenated plant-derived fatty acid oils in their 2017 safety assessment, concluding the group is safe as used in cosmetics.
Questions everyone asks
Why is the oil hydrogenated for cosmetic use?
Hydrogenation converts liquid rapeseed oil into a semi-solid fat by saturating its fatty acid double bonds. This raises the melting point, improves oxidative stability, and gives the ingredient a waxy texture that works as a structuring agent in lip balms, solid lotions, and stick formulations.
Is Hydrogenated Brassica Campestris Seed Oil safe for sensitive skin?
Yes, it is generally well tolerated. The CIR Expert Panel concluded that plant-derived hydrogenated oils are safe as used in cosmetics. People with known rapeseed or canola allergies should patch-test first, but significant sensitization risk is not documented for this ingredient.
What products commonly contain this ingredient?
It is frequently found in lip care products such as lip balms and lip pencils, eyebrow pencils, cleansing balms, body lotion bars, and solid moisturizers, where its semi-solid consistency helps provide structure and texture.
How does this differ from regular (non-hydrogenated) Brassica Campestris Seed Oil?
The non-hydrogenated form is a fluid oil primarily used as a skin conditioning and emollient ingredient in liquid formulations. Hydrogenation solidifies the oil, adding viscosity-controlling and occlusive properties that make it suitable for anhydrous, solid, or stick-format cosmetics.