What it is
Hydrogenated lecithin is made by hydrogenating natural lecithin, a group of amphiphilic glycerophospholipids that are attracted to both water and oil. Because it has both water-loving and oil-loving parts, it works as an emulsifier that binds oil and water phases together and as a skin-conditioning agent. It can also assemble into liposomes, spherical bilayer structures used to help carry and stabilize other ingredients in a formula.
Safety & warnings
Hydrogenated lecithin is a naturally derived emulsifier that is generally well tolerated on skin. Because the source lecithin is most often soy- or egg-derived, individuals with those allergies may prefer to check the source, though the purified phospholipid is widely used without issue. The hydrogenation step improves oxidative stability, reducing the rancidity concerns that can affect unmodified lecithin.
Origin & sourcing
Lecithin is a naturally occurring mixture of phospholipids found in sources such as soybeans, egg yolk, and sunflower, with soybean oil being the dominant commercial source. Hydrogenated lecithin is produced by adding hydrogen to lecithin, which saturates its fatty-acid chains; this makes the material more stable and more resistant to oxidation than untreated lecithin.
History
Lecithin was first isolated in 1845 by the French chemist Theodore (Nicolas-Theodore) Gobley from egg yolk, and in 1850 he named its phosphatidylcholine component lecithine, from the Greek word for egg yolk; he later showed lecithin occurs in many tissues including blood and brain. The hydrogenated derivative was developed to give a more oxidation-stable version of this natural emulsifier for use in formulated products.
Questions everyone asks
Is hydrogenated lecithin natural?
It is derived from natural lecithin, a phospholipid from sources like soy, egg yolk, or sunflower, then hydrogenated to make it more stable and oxidation-resistant.
What does it do in a sunscreen?
It acts as an emulsifier that helps blend oil and water and as a skin-conditioning agent, and it can form liposomes that help carry other ingredients.
Will it cause an allergic reaction?
It is generally well tolerated. Since it is usually soy- or egg-derived, people with those allergies may want to verify the source, but reactions to the purified phospholipid are uncommon.