Hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Seed Extract — INCI reference

What it is

Hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Seed Extract is produced by hydrolysis (acid, enzyme, or other method) of proteins from okra (Hibiscus esculentus / Abelmoschus esculentus) seeds. The hydrolysis yields low-molecular-weight oligopeptides that in vitro studies suggest can reversibly inhibit muscle cell contractions — a mechanism described as 'Botox-like' — potentially reducing the appearance of expression lines and wrinkles. The seeds also contribute linoleic acid, oleic acid, amino acids, and polysaccharides, lending antioxidant and skin-conditioning properties. It is used in a broad range of formulations including serums, creams, eye treatments, hair masks, and toners.

Safety & warnings

No significant safety concerns are widely reported for topical use. The CAS number 91723-07-8 covers the broader hydrolyzed hibiscus esculentus extract. Okra proteins may theoretically cause sensitization in individuals with latex or plant-protein allergies, though no specific allergy data for this hydrolysate was identified. EWG Skin Deep lists this ingredient as low concern. The clinical study noted perianal itch in approximately 3% of subjects using a high-concentration (3%) therapeutic ointment, which is not typical of rinse-off or leave-on cosmetic use levels.

Origin & sourcing

Derived from seeds of Hibiscus esculentus (okra), a plant in the Malvaceae family originating in East Africa (Ethiopia, Eritrea, eastern Sudan). Seeds are subjected to biotransformation or hydrolysis — typically enzymatic — to break native seed proteins into oligopeptides. BASF markets the commercial ingredient Myoxinol LS 9736; the formulation process was developed by Laboratoires Sérobiologiques (France).

History

Okra (Hibiscus esculentus, now reclassified as Abelmoschus esculentus) has been cultivated and used medicinally since at least the 13th century in Egypt. The cosmetic oligopeptide complex was developed by Laboratoires Sérobiologiques, later acquired by BASF, and commercialized under the trade name Myoxinol. A 2015 clinical study (Renzi et al., Gastroenterology Research and Practice) examined topical application of 3% Myoxinol ointment for treatment of anal fissure, confirming muscle-relaxant bioactivity in vivo.

Questions everyone asks

What is Hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Seed Extract and where does it come from?

It is a complex of small oligopeptides obtained by hydrolyzing proteins from okra seeds (Hibiscus esculentus). Okra originated in East Africa and is cultivated widely in tropical and subtropical regions.

What does this ingredient do in a sunscreen or skincare formula?

It primarily acts as a skin conditioner. It also contains antioxidant components (linoleic acid, oleic acid, polysaccharides) that help protect skin from oxidative stress. At higher concentrations, in vitro data suggest the oligopeptides may reduce the frequency of muscle cell contractions, potentia

Is Myoxinol the same as this ingredient?

Myoxinol LS 9736, marketed by BASF (originally developed by Laboratoires Sérobiologiques), is the primary commercial trade name for the hydrolyzed okra seed oligopeptide complex with the INCI name Hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Extract.

Is it safe for sensitive skin?

The ingredient is generally considered low risk. EWG Skin Deep rates it with no significant concerns. Theoretical sensitization risk exists for individuals with plant-protein allergies, but no widespread reports of adverse reactions are documented in cosmetic use.