Irakusa Ekisu — INCI reference

What it is

Irakusa Ekisu (Japanese: イラクサエキス) is the cosmetic ingredient name used in Japanese-market formulations for an extract obtained from stinging nettle (Urtica dioica L., Urticaceae). It is standardly produced by aqueous or hydroalcoholic extraction of the aerial parts—chiefly leaves and stems—of the plant. The extract is rich in flavonoids (quercetin, kaempferol), phenolic acids, tannins, chlorophyll, vitamins A, C and K, and minerals including silica and potassium. These constituents confer skin-conditioning, astringent, sebum-regulating, soothing, and antioxidant properties. In haircare, nettle extract supports scalp health and may help reduce dandruff. It is commonly found in toners, serums, scalp treatments, and shampoos targeting oily or acne-prone skin. The stinging compounds present in the fresh plant (histamine, serotonin, formic acid) are removed during extraction, making the finished ingredient safe for topical application.

Safety & warnings

Contact with the fresh plant causes urticaria (stinging and burning) due to histamine, serotonin, and acetylcholine in leaf trichomes; these compounds are removed during extraction and are not present in cosmetic-grade nettle extract. The extract has a non-comedogenic rating of 0 and a low irritation potential. Individuals with known plant-family (Urticaceae) allergies should patch-test before use. No significant phototoxicity or sensitization concerns have been identified at concentrations typical in cosmetics. Acute oral toxicity studies show no adverse effects up to 4 g/kg, though cosmetic preparations are for external use only.

Origin & sourcing

Derived from Urtica dioica (stinging nettle), a herbaceous perennial native to Europe, temperate Asia, and North Africa, now naturalized worldwide. Commercial extraction typically uses the leaves and stems, harvested before flowering. Plant material is extracted with water, ethanol, or glycerin; the solvent is then removed or adjusted to the desired concentration. The resulting liquid or dried extract is standardized and supplied to cosmetic formulators.

History

Stinging nettle has been used medicinally and in textile production since at least the Bronze Age (textile fragments dated c. 1730–1600 BC). It appears in the 10th-century Anglo-Saxon Nine Herbs Charm. Deliberate skin application (urtication) was used as a folk rubefacient for rheumatism. Nettle extract entered modern cosmetic ingredient nomenclature as URTICA DIOICA EXTRACT (CAS 84012-40-8) and is listed in the EU CosIng database. In Japanese cosmetic labeling regulations, the ingredient is designated Irakusa Ekisu (イラクサエキス), reflecting Japanese INCI naming conventions.

Questions everyone asks

What is Irakusa Ekisu and where does it come from?

Irakusa Ekisu is the Japanese INCI name for an extract of stinging nettle (Urtica dioica). The plant is harvested and its leaves and stems are extracted with water or ethanol to yield a concentrated liquid rich in flavonoids, tannins, minerals, and vitamins.

What does nettle extract do in skincare formulations?

It functions primarily as a skin conditioner, soothing agent, and astringent. The tannins tighten pores, the flavonoids provide antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects, and the mineral salts support skin tone. It is particularly useful in products targeting oily or acne-prone skin.

Is Irakusa Ekisu safe for sensitive skin?

The extraction process removes the stinging compounds (histamine, formic acid) found in the raw plant, making the cosmetic ingredient non-irritating at typical use concentrations. It has a non-comedogenic rating of 0.

Why does Japanese cosmetic labeling use 'Irakusa Ekisu' instead of the INCI name?

Japan uses its own cosmetic ingredient naming conventions (Japanese INCI) that translate or transliterate ingredient origins into Japanese-derived names. 'Irakusa' (イラクサ) is the Japanese word for nettle (Urtica), and 'Ekisu' (エキス) means extract, so the name is a direct Japanese-language rendering of

Sources & references

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