Lauryl Glyceryl Ascorbate — INCI reference

What it is

Lauryl Glyceryl Ascorbate (CAS 1120360-38-4) is a chemically modified form of ascorbic acid (vitamin C) in which a lauryl (C12 alkyl) chain is attached to 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate, creating an amphipathic molecule with enhanced stability and skin-penetrating properties. Unlike pure L-ascorbic acid, it does not require a narrow acidic pH for efficacy, making it easier to formulate across a wider pH range. In skin, it acts by two complementary mechanisms: directly scavenging free radicals and activating the intracellular antioxidant defense system via upregulation of PPAR-γ and Nrf2 signaling, which in turn stimulates protective enzymes (HO-1, NQO1, γ-GCS). It also promotes ceramide synthesis by upregulating serine palmitoyltransferase (SPT) mRNA, reinforcing the skin barrier and reducing transepidermal water loss.

Safety & warnings

No specific allergen, irritant, or comedogenic flags identified in the available literature. The ingredient is generally regarded as well-tolerated; published studies used human epidermal cell cultures and reconstructed skin models without reporting cytotoxicity at cosmetic use levels. Individuals with known sensitivities to ascorbic acid derivatives should exercise caution. No CIR or EU Scientific Committee safety opinions specific to this compound were located.

Origin & sourcing

Synthesized by chemical esterification of ascorbic acid with glycerol and a lauryl (C12) fatty alcohol chain. The lauryl group confers amphipathic character, improving both oil dispersibility and skin permeability. This derivative was developed in Japan by academic and cosmetic chemistry researchers as a more stable and skin-penetrating alternative to L-ascorbic acid.

History

Reported in peer-reviewed literature from approximately 2016 onward, with key studies published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science and the Journal of Dermatological Science characterizing its barrier-reinforcing and antioxidant mechanisms. Listed in the EU CosIng database (COSMILE Europe) as Lauryl 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate with antioxidant and humectant functions. No significant regulatory restrictions have been identified.

Questions everyone asks

How is Lauryl Glyceryl Ascorbate different from regular vitamin C (ascorbic acid)?

Regular L-ascorbic acid is unstable in formulations and requires a low pH (below 3.5) to work effectively. Lauryl Glyceryl Ascorbate is chemically modified with a glycerol linker and a C12 lauryl chain, making it more stable across a broader pH range and better able to penetrate the skin's lipid-ric

What does Lauryl Glyceryl Ascorbate do for the skin barrier?

Research shows it activates serine palmitoyltransferase (SPT), a key enzyme in ceramide production. Ceramides are lipids essential for a healthy skin barrier, so increased ceramide synthesis helps reduce moisture loss and strengthen skin integrity.

Does Lauryl Glyceryl Ascorbate help with sensitive skin?

Studies in dry skin models indicate it can restore normal levels of inflammatory markers (IL-1α, NGF, MMP-9) that are disrupted in sensitive skin, suggesting a potential role in calming reactivity associated with barrier disruption and oxidative stress.

Is Lauryl Glyceryl Ascorbate the same as Lauryl 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate on ingredient labels?

Yes. Both names refer to the same compound (CAS 1120360-38-4). The EU CosIng database lists it as Lauryl 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate; both forms appear on cosmetic labels and in research literature.