What it is
This ingredient is a mixed ester built on lauroyl glutamate, an amino acid derivative, esterified with phytosterol, behenyl alcohol, and octyldodecanol. The combination of an amino acid backbone with these fatty and sterol components gives it lipid-like, skin-compatible character that conditions and softens the skin. It is valued for an elegant, cushiony emollient feel and can help structure and stabilize the lipid phase of a formula.
Safety & warnings
Lipoamino acid esters of this type are generally well tolerated and skin-friendly. This material is not a recognized fragrance allergen, and there is no established comedogenicity concern, though individual sensitivity is always possible.
Origin & sourcing
Synthetic, produced by esterifying lauroyl glutamic acid with phytosterol, behenyl alcohol, and octyldodecanol; several of these building blocks can be plant-derived.
Questions everyone asks
Why does this ingredient have such a long name?
The name lists each alcohol esterified onto the lauroyl glutamate backbone (phytosteryl, behenyl, and octyldodecyl), so a single complex ester carries a long INCI name.
What does it do in a sunscreen?
It works as an emollient and skin-conditioning agent that softens the skin and gives the formula a smooth, cushiony feel.