What it is
Phytosteryl/Decyltetradecyl Myristoyl Methylaminopropionate is an amino acid-based ester formed by reacting N-myristoyl-N-methylalanine (an N-acyl derivative of beta-alanine) with a mixture of phytosterol and decyltetradecanol. Its ceramide-like molecular architecture — combining a long-chain fatty acid (myristic acid) with a plant sterol and a branched fatty alcohol — gives it a waxy, solid texture at room temperature. In cosmetic formulations it functions as an emollient and skin-conditioning agent, providing moisturizing properties and a smooth, non-tacky skin feel with excellent spreadability. It also acts as a thickener and viscosity modifier, contributing consistency to color cosmetics such as lipsticks and liquid foundations, and can serve as a co-emulsifier in creams and lotions. The ingredient is used across skincare, sun care, color cosmetics, and hair care applications.
Safety & warnings
No significant safety concerns have been identified for this ingredient at typical cosmetic use levels. It is not listed as a restricted or prohibited substance in the EU Cosmetics Regulation or by major safety authorities. No known allergens, comedogenic properties, or irritant potential have been reported in available literature. As with most ester emollients, patch testing is advisable for individuals with very sensitive skin.
Origin & sourcing
Synthesized by acylation of N-methyl-beta-alanine with myristic acid to form N-myristoyl-N-methylalanine, followed by esterification with a blend of phytosterol (derived from plant sterols, typically from soybean or tall oil) and decyltetradecanol (a synthetic branched fatty alcohol). The phytosterol component is of vegetable origin.
History
Commercialized by Ajinomoto Co., Inc. under the ELDEW brand as part of their amino acid-based cosmetic emollient line. The ELDEW series leverages Ajinomoto's expertise in amino acid chemistry to produce high-performance cosmetic esters. The ingredient appears in EU CosIng under COSING Ref. No. 83908.
Questions everyone asks
What makes this ingredient different from other emollients?
Its amino acid-derived structure (based on beta-alanine) combined with plant phytosterols gives it a ceramide-like profile, providing moisturizing benefits and a light, non-greasy skin feel that many conventional ester emollients lack.
Is this ingredient vegan-friendly?
The phytosterol component is derived from plant sources (typically soybean or tall oil), and the amino acid backbone (beta-alanine) can be synthetically produced, making this ingredient potentially suitable for vegan formulations, though specific sourcing should be confirmed with the manufacturer.
What product types commonly use this ingredient?
It is used in lipsticks and liquid foundations (for consistency and glide), creams and lotions (as co-emulsifier), sun care products, and body care formulations where a waxy, non-tacky emollient is desired.
Is it the same as Phytosteryl/Decyltetradecyl Myristoyl Methyl Beta-Alaninate?
Yes. Methylaminopropionate and methyl beta-alaninate refer to the same functional group (N-methyl-beta-alanine ester); the two names are INCI naming variants for the same compound, with ELDEW APS-307 being the commercially marketed form.