What it is
This ingredient is an ester built from lauroyl glutamic acid combined with phytosterol and octyldodecanol moieties, giving it both lipid-like and skin-affinity character. In sunscreens, especially mineral and powder-containing formulas, it functions as an emollient and as a binder that helps wet, disperse, and hold pigments and inorganic UV filters in a smooth, even film. It contributes to a soft, cushiony skin feel.
Safety & warnings
Amino-acid-derived esters of this type are generally well tolerated and non-irritating. As a lipid-based binder it may add to the richness of a formula, which some very oily or acne-prone users may notice.
Origin & sourcing
Synthetic ester; manufactured from glutamic acid (an amino acid), lauric acid, plant-derived phytosterols, and the fatty alcohol octyldodecanol.
Questions everyone asks
What does this ingredient do in mineral sunscreens?
It acts as an emollient and a binder that helps disperse and hold zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, and pigments in a smooth, even layer on the skin.
Is it derived from amino acids?
Yes. It is based on lauroyl glutamate, an ester of the amino acid glutamic acid, combined with plant sterol and fatty alcohol components.