What it is
Polyglyceryl-5 polyricinoleate is made by esterifying a polyglycerol backbone with condensed ricinoleic acid from castor oil, yielding a highly lipophilic emulsifier. Its low HLB makes it effective at stabilizing water-in-oil and water-in-silicone emulsions and at wetting and dispersing powders such as pigments and inorganic UV filters. It is valued in sun care for helping suspend mineral particles evenly and for contributing a light, non-tacky feel.
Safety & warnings
Polyglyceryl polyricinoleate esters have a long record of use, including food applications, and are generally considered mild and well tolerated. As castor-derived materials they are not common sensitizers, and they are not recognized fragrance allergens.
Origin & sourcing
Largely plant-derived in its fatty portion: the polyricinoleate segment comes from castor oil, combined with polyglycerol; it is produced by synthetic esterification.
Questions everyone asks
What does this emulsifier do in mineral sunscreens?
Its lipophilic, low-HLB character helps wet and disperse inorganic UV-filter powders and stabilizes water-in-oil emulsions, giving a more even, less streaky layer.
Is it related to castor oil?
Yes. Its fatty acid portion, polyricinoleic acid, is derived from castor oil, then bound to a polyglycerol backbone to create the emulsifier.