What it is
Polyglyceryl Laurate is a class of non-ionic surfactants formed by esterifying polyglycerol (a polymerized form of glycerin) with lauric acid, a fatty acid commonly derived from coconut or palm oil. The INCI name covers a family of compounds differing in the degree of glycerol polymerization, such as Polyglyceryl-2, -3, -4, -6, and -10 Laurate. In cosmetic formulations, it stabilizes oil-in-water emulsions, reduces surface tension for gentle cleansing, and solubilizes lipophilic ingredients into aqueous systems without leaving a greasy residue. It also enhances spreadability and skin feel. The ingredient is PEG-free and biodegradable, making it a popular choice in natural and green cosmetic formulations. It appears in cleansers, moisturizers, lotions, and makeup removers.
Safety & warnings
Considered non-irritating and non-sensitizing at concentrations used in cosmetics, per the CIR Expert Panel safety assessment of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters. Non-comedogenic (comedogenic rating 0–1). Vegan and PEG-free. Those with sensitivities to lauric acid derivatives may rarely experience reactions. Patch testing is advised for highly sensitive individuals.
Origin & sourcing
Produced by esterification of polyglycerin with lauric acid. Polyglycerin is derived from the polymerization of glycerin, which is obtained as a byproduct of vegetable oil processing (saponification). Lauric acid is sourced from coconut oil or palm kernel oil. The resulting polyglyceryl ester is plant-derived, vegan, and biodegradable.
History
Polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids have been used in food and cosmetics since the mid-20th century. As consumer demand for PEG-free and natural emulsifiers grew, polyglyceryl laurates became increasingly common in cosmetics from the 1990s onward. The EU CosIng database lists several variants (e.g., Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, entry 78911). The CIR Expert Panel conducted a safety assessment of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters (published 2016), concluding they are safe for cosmetic use.
Questions everyone asks
What does Polyglyceryl Laurate do in a sunscreen or skincare product?
It acts as an emulsifier and surfactant, helping to blend water and oil phases into a stable, uniform formulation. It also improves texture and spreadability.
Is Polyglyceryl Laurate safe for sensitive skin?
Yes, it is generally well-tolerated. The CIR Expert Panel found polyglyceryl fatty acid esters safe for cosmetic use when formulated to be non-irritating. Those with lauric acid sensitivities should patch test.
Is Polyglyceryl Laurate natural or synthetic?
It is semi-synthetic: derived from plant-based glycerin (from vegetable oils) and lauric acid (from coconut or palm kernel oil) through an esterification process. It is vegan and biodegradable.
How is Polyglyceryl Laurate different from PEG-based emulsifiers?
Unlike PEG (polyethylene glycol) emulsifiers, Polyglyceryl Laurate is made from glycerin rather than ethylene oxide, making it PEG-free. This is preferred by formulators seeking natural or 'clean' ingredient profiles.