What it is
Red 227, listed under INCI as CI 73385, is a synthetic organic pigment belonging to the thioindigo family. Its chemical name is 5-chloro-2-(5-chloro-7-methyl-3-oxobenzo[b]thien-2(3H)-ylidene)-7-methylbenzo[b]thiophene-3(2H)-one, with the molecular formula C18H10Cl2O2S2 (MW 393.31). Despite the 'Red' designation in its cosmetic name, this pigment imparts a red-purple to violet hue in formulations. It is practically insoluble in water (estimated 0.03 mg/L at 25°C) and synthetically produced via cyclization and oxidation of chlorinated phenylthio acetic acid derivatives. It is authorized as a colorant in cosmetic products under Annex IV of EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 and is tracked in the EU EINECS system under number 226-750-0. The pigment exhibits good lightfastness. Possible allergic reactions have been noted in sensitive individuals.
Safety & warnings
Possible allergic reactions have been reported for CI 73385. As an organohalogen compound (contains two chlorine atoms), it is subject to regulatory scrutiny. It is authorized for use in cosmetics under EU Annex IV with defined maximum concentrations and permitted applications. Sensitivity testing is advisable for individuals prone to colorant allergies. No comedogenicity data found in available literature.
Origin & sourcing
CI 73385 is a fully synthetic compound with no natural source. It is manufactured by cyclization and oxidation of chlorinated phenylthio acetic acid derivatives, belonging to the thioindigo class of organic pigments.
History
CI 73385 is registered in the EINECS inventory (226-750-0), indicating it was in commercial use in the European Community before September 1981. It is included in Annex IV of EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009, the positive list of colorants permitted in cosmetic products, and is pre-registered under ECHA/REACH.
Questions everyone asks
Why is this ingredient called 'Red 227' if it produces a violet color?
The 'Red' designation comes from the Color Index naming system used in cosmetics regulations, which can differ from the actual visual appearance. CI 73385 (Red 227) is a thioindigo pigment that produces a red-purple to violet hue in formulations, and is also known as Pigment Violet 36.
Is CI 73385 (Red 227) approved for use in cosmetics?
Yes. CI 73385 is listed on Annex IV of the EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009, the positive list of permitted colorants. It is subject to defined concentration limits and permitted applications under this regulation.
What type of products contain Red 227?
Red 227 (CI 73385) appears in color cosmetics including lip products, nail products, and other formulations where a violet-red pigment is desired. It is used as a surface colorant.
Is Red 227 a natural or synthetic ingredient?
Red 227 (CI 73385) is entirely synthetic. It is produced by chemical synthesis and has no natural source equivalent. It belongs to the thioindigo class of organic pigments.