Saccharomyces/Coix Lacryma-Jobi Seed Ferment Filtrate — INCI reference

What it is

Saccharomyces/Coix Lacryma-Jobi Seed Ferment Filtrate is produced by fermenting the seeds of Coix lacryma-jobi (Job's tears) with Saccharomyces (yeast). The fermentation process breaks down complex seed compounds into smaller, more bioavailable molecules, concentrating beneficial nutrients including amino acids (alanine, leucine), antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals. In cosmetics, it is valued for its moisturizing properties—replenishing amino acids that support the skin's natural moisture barrier—as well as its ability to modulate tyrosinase activity, helping to reduce hyperpigmentation and even skin tone. It also suppresses pro-inflammatory cytokines, making it suitable for reactive and sensitive skin types. The ingredient has a lightweight, non-greasy profile and is particularly popular in K-beauty formulations such as serums, essences, creams, and face masks.

Safety & warnings

No known harmful side effects when used in cosmetic products. Considered non-sensitizing and suitable for sensitive skin. No reported comedogenic concerns. As with any botanical ferment, a patch test is recommended for individuals with known yeast or grain allergies. Compatible with most actives including retinoids and exfoliating acids.

Origin & sourcing

Derived from the seeds of Coix lacryma-jobi (Job's tears), a tall tropical grass native to Southeast Asia and widely cultivated in East Asia. The ma-yuen (cultivated) variety is prized for its nutrient-rich seeds. Seeds are fermented with Saccharomyces yeast, a process that increases bioavailability of amino acids, polyphenols, and fatty acids (oleic, linoleic, palmitic, stearic acids). The seeds contain approximately 65% carbohydrates and 14% protein and provide eight essential amino acids.

History

Job's tears has been cultivated in East Asia since at least 3000 BC and has a long history in traditional Chinese medicine (known as yi ren, 薏仁) and East Asian food traditions (Japanese hatomugi cha, Korean yulmu cha). Arab merchants introduced the plant to Europe during the Middle Ages. The cultivated ma-yuen variety has been used in Korean and Japanese cosmetics for several decades, with fermented forms gaining prominence in the K-beauty industry for enhanced bioavailability.

Questions everyone asks

What is the difference between Saccharomyces/Coix Lacryma-Jobi Seed Ferment Filtrate and Coix Lacryma-Jobi Seed Extract?

The ferment filtrate is produced through yeast (Saccharomyces) fermentation of Job's tears seeds, which breaks down complex compounds into smaller, more bioavailable molecules and increases the concentration of beneficial amino acids and antioxidants.

What plant does this ingredient come from?

It comes from Coix lacryma-jobi, commonly known as Job's tears or adlay millet — a tall grass native to Southeast Asia that produces hard, bead-like seeds. The cultivated variety (var. ma-yuen), also called Chinese pearl barley, is used in food and cosmetics.

Is this ingredient suitable for sensitive skin?

Yes. The ingredient is generally considered non-sensitizing and kind to the skin, suitable for sensitive and reactive skin types. It suppresses pro-inflammatory signals and provides gentle hydration without a greasy feel.

What skin concerns does this ingredient address?

It primarily addresses hydration, uneven skin tone and hyperpigmentation (by modulating tyrosinase activity), redness and inflammation, and signs of aging. It also helps support the skin barrier and refine skin texture.

Sources & references

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