Sapium Sebiferum Fruit Extract — INCI reference

What it is

Sapium Sebiferum Fruit Extract is derived from the fruit (seed capsules) of Triadica sebifera, formerly classified as Sapium sebiferum, a deciduous tree in the Euphorbiaceae family native to China and East Asia. The fruit contains three-lobed capsules housing seeds coated in a white waxy tallow layer. The extract is rich in flavonoids (quercetin, kaempferol, gallic acid, rutin), tannins, and triacylglycerols including palmitic and oleic acids. These constituents contribute antioxidant, astringent, and emollient properties when incorporated into cosmetic formulations. The tallow fraction historically provided an emollient base for skin preparations, while the polyphenolic compounds may help neutralize free radicals and support skin texture. Used in small amounts, the fruit extract serves primarily as a skin-conditioning adjunct.

Safety & warnings

The plant sap and unprocessed leaves are noted to be potentially irritating and toxic. Phorbol esters, a class of irritant compounds found in some Euphorbiaceae members, have been detected in the plant. Patch testing is advisable for individuals with sensitive skin. The tree is classified as invasive in North America and parts of Europe due to its ecological impact. No specific CIR or EU CosIng safety assessment was identified for the fruit extract; its use in cosmetics appears limited in published regulatory literature.

Origin & sourcing

Derived from the fruit of Triadica sebifera (syn. Sapium sebiferum), a deciduous tree native to eastern China and cultivated across tropical and subtropical regions worldwide. The fruit capsules are harvested and the extract is obtained via solvent extraction of the seed and outer waxy capsule material. The tree's seeds are surrounded by a white vegetable tallow that has been used for centuries in soap and candle production, and the extract retains some of these lipid-rich constituents alongside polyphenols.

History

The Chinese tallow tree has been cultivated in China for over 1,400 years for its seed tallow, used in candles, soap, and cloth dressing. Ming dynasty records (16th century) describe medicinal uses of bark and leaf decoctions. The plant was introduced to the southeastern United States in the 18th century. Its INCI name Sapium Sebiferum Fruit Extract reflects the older botanical classification; the tree was reclassified as Triadica sebifera around 2002 but the INCI name retains the historical Sapium genus designation.

Questions everyone asks

What is Sapium Sebiferum Fruit Extract in cosmetics?

It is an extract from the fruit capsules of the Chinese tallow tree (Triadica sebifera), used as a skin-conditioning and antioxidant ingredient. It contains flavonoids such as quercetin and kaempferol, tannins, gallic acid, and fatty acids from the seed tallow coating.

What does this ingredient do for skin?

The polyphenolic compounds in the extract, including quercetin and rutin, provide antioxidant activity that may help protect skin from oxidative stress. The tallow-derived fatty acids (palmitic and oleic acids) contribute emollient properties, helping to soften and condition skin texture.

Is Sapium Sebiferum Fruit Extract safe to use in cosmetics?

The processed fruit extract is used in cosmetic formulations, but caution is warranted because the Euphorbiaceae family contains plants with irritant latex and phorbol esters. Individuals with sensitive skin should patch test products containing this ingredient.

Is this the same as Chinese tallow or stillingia oil?

Related but not identical. Stillingia oil is pressed from the inner seeds, while the tallow (stillingia tallow) is the waxy coating around the seeds. The fruit extract encompasses compounds from the whole fruit capsule including seed coatings, and may contain both lipid and polyphenolic fractions, u

Sources & references

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