Shirakaba Ekisu — INCI reference

What it is

Shirakaba Ekisu is an extract derived from the bark, leaves, or sap of the white birch tree (Betula platyphylla), native to Japan, Korea, China, and Siberia. Its key bioactive compounds include betulin, betulinic acid, lupeol, oleanolic acid, flavonoids (quercetin, luteolin), tannins, saponins, and amino acids. These constituents confer antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, astringent, and skin-conditioning properties. The extract is used in toners, serums, moisturizers, and hair care formulations. It helps improve skin hydration, reduce redness, and supports a more even complexion through mild melanin-inhibiting activity. Research using zebrafish and MTT assays confirms low cytotoxicity for betulin-rich birch bark extracts. In Japan it is listed in the Medical Device Raw Material Standards (医薬部外品原料規格) and has over 20 years of documented cosmetic use.

Safety & warnings

Generally considered safe for topical cosmetic use with over 20 years of market history and no serious adverse events reported. Birch pollen is a common allergen; individuals with birch pollen allergy (Bet v 1 sensitization) may occasionally experience cross-reactive skin sensitivity to birch-derived extracts. Patch testing is advisable for those with known tree-pollen allergies. Eye irritation data are limited. No significant comedogenic or phototoxic risks identified in available literature.

Origin & sourcing

Derived from Betula platyphylla (Asian white birch), a deciduous tree reaching 30 m, native to Hokkaido and northern Japan, as well as Korea, China, Mongolia, Russia, and Siberia. The extract is obtained from bark, leaves, or sap via solvent extraction, maceration, or decoction, then concentrated and purified. Bark extraction yields high levels of pentacyclic triterpenes (betulin up to 50% of purified extract), while leaf and sap extracts are richer in flavonoids, minerals, and amino acids.

History

Birch bark and birch sap have been used in traditional medicine across Russia, Japan, and East Asia as diuretics, anti-inflammatories, and antiseptics. In Japan, white birch (shirakaba) is culturally significant and the tree is abundant in Hokkaido. The ingredient was formally recognized in Japan's cosmetic regulatory framework and listed in the Medical Device Raw Material Standards 2021 under the display name シラカバエキス. Related INCI entries (Betula Platyphylla Japonica Bark Extract, Betula Alba Bark Extract) appear in the EU CosIng database as skin-conditioning agents.

Questions everyone asks

What part of the white birch tree is used in cosmetics?

Cosmetic products may use extract from the bark, leaves, or sap. Bark extracts are richest in pentacyclic triterpenes (betulin, betulinic acid), while leaf and sap extracts provide flavonoids, amino acids, and minerals.

Is Shirakaba Ekisu suitable for sensitive skin?

Yes, it is commonly formulated for sensitive skin. Its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties help calm redness and irritation. However, people with birch pollen allergies may have cross-reactive sensitivity and should do a patch test before use.

What skin benefits does White Birch Extract provide?

The extract offers antioxidant protection from environmental stressors, skin-conditioning and moisturizing effects, mild astringency that can help tighten the appearance of pores, and anti-inflammatory properties beneficial for acne-prone or reactive skin.

Is Shirakaba Ekisu approved for use in Japanese cosmetics?

Yes. The ingredient is listed in Japan's Medical Device Raw Material Standards (医薬部外品原料規格2021) under the official display name シラカバエキス and has a documented history of safe cosmetic use spanning more than 20 years in Japan.