What it is
Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, commonly called jojoba oil, is the liquid expressed from jojoba seeds, which are roughly half oil by weight. Chemically it is unusual among plant oils: rather than triglycerides, it is composed almost entirely (about 97 percent) of mono-esters of long-chain fatty acids and alcohols, that is, wax esters. This wax-ester structure makes it very stable against oxidation and heat, and closely resembles the wax esters found in human sebum. In formulations it spreads as a thin, non-greasy emollient layer that softens skin and helps condition skin and hair.
Safety & warnings
Jojoba oil is generally well tolerated and is described in cosmetic references as non-irritating, which suits most skin types including sensitive and oily complexions. Because its wax-ester chemistry resembles skin sebum, it forms a light, semi-occlusive film rather than a heavy greasy layer. As with any botanical oil, individuals with known sensitivities should patch test, but reported reactivity is low.
Origin & sourcing
It is a plant-derived oil obtained from the seeds of the jojoba shrub (Simmondsia chinensis), which is native to southern Arizona, southern California, and northwestern Mexico. The oil is extracted from the seed, which contains roughly 50 percent oil by weight. Its dominant fatty component is 11-eicosenoic acid (about 77 percent), with erucic acid making up around 12 percent.
History
The O'odham people traditionally extracted jojoba oil to treat wounds. During World War II, jojoba oil was used as an additive in motor oils and as a machine-gun lubricant. Domestication of the wild plant began in the early 1970s. Commercial interest in cosmetics grew sharply after the 1971 ban on whale oil imports, since jojoba oil proved a capable substitute for sperm whale oil in cosmetic and industrial uses.
Questions everyone asks
Is jojoba oil actually an oil?
Technically it is a liquid wax ester, not a typical triglyceride oil. About 97 percent of it is made of wax esters, which is why it is unusually stable and resists going rancid.
Why is jojoba oil used in sunscreens and skincare?
It works as an emollient that softens and conditions skin, spreading as a light, non-greasy film. Its structure resembles human sebum, so it tends to feel compatible with skin.
Is jojoba oil natural?
Yes. It is pressed from the seeds of the jojoba shrub, which is native to the deserts of the southwestern United States and northwestern Mexico.