What it is
Squalane is a saturated hydrocarbon with the formula C30H62, the fully hydrogenated and therefore more stable form of squalene. Because it is completely saturated it is not subject to auto-oxidation, giving it a long shelf life and a colorless, odorless character well suited to cosmetics. In skincare it acts as a lightweight emollient and skin-conditioning agent that provides surface occlusion and helps reduce moisture loss while feeling non-greasy. It is closely related to a lipid the body itself produces, since squalene occurs naturally in human sebum.
Safety & warnings
Squalane is considered a very gentle emollient suitable across skin types, including oily, acne-prone, and sensitive skin, and its saturated structure makes it resistant to oxidation that can otherwise irritate skin. Because it closely resembles a natural skin lipid it is generally well tolerated. As with any oil, individual responses vary, so a patch test is reasonable for highly reactive skin.
Origin & sourcing
Squalane can be derived from several sources. Historically the squalene precursor was obtained from shark liver oil, but environmental concerns drove a shift to renewable plant sources such as olive oil residues and, increasingly, sugarcane fermentation, in which yeast produce farnesene that is then dimerized and hydrogenated to squalane. The finished ingredient is made by hydrogenating squalene to the saturated squalane.
History
The hydrogenation of squalene to squalane was first reported in 1916, and squalane was introduced as a cosmetic emollient in the 1950s. Shark liver oil was a traditional source, with roughly 3,000 sharks needed to produce one ton, which spurred the development of olive- and sugarcane-derived alternatives that supplied a substantial share of industry volume by the 2010s.
Questions everyone asks
What is the difference between squalane and squalene?
Squalane is the saturated, hydrogenated version of squalene; the saturation makes it far more stable and resistant to oxidation, with a longer shelf life.
Is squalane made from sharks?
It can be, historically, but most cosmetic squalane today is plant-derived from sources such as olives or sugarcane fermentation.
Will squalane feel greasy?
It is a lightweight emollient that softens skin and reduces moisture loss while generally feeling non-greasy.