What it is
Stearoyl Phytosphingosine (also labeled Ceramide NP or Ceramide 3) is a sphingolipid composed of a phytosphingosine backbone N-acylated with an 18-carbon stearic acid chain. It is the most abundant ceramide subtype in human stratum corneum, comprising approximately 22% of all ceramides in the skin barrier. In cosmetics, it integrates into the intercellular lipid bilayer of the stratum corneum, strengthening adhesion between corneocytes, reducing transepidermal water loss, and calming redness and irritation. Research has shown it can inhibit histamine-induced scratching behavior and suppress pro-inflammatory cytokines IL-4 and TNF-α. It is also used in hair conditioning to improve manageability and softness. Typical cosmetic use concentrations range from 0.05% in cleansers to 0.5% in repair serums.
Safety & warnings
Ceramide NP (Stearoyl Phytosphingosine) is considered safe for use in cosmetics. The CIR Expert Panel found ceramides non-irritating and non-sensitizing at concentrations up to 10% in topical formulations. No significant allergenicity, comedogenicity, or irritancy concerns have been identified. It is a skin-identical ingredient, closely mimicking naturally occurring skin lipids, which contributes to its favorable tolerability profile. No restrictions under EU Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009 are listed for this ingredient.
Origin & sourcing
Stearoyl Phytosphingosine occurs naturally in mammalian skin, plants, and yeast. For cosmetic use, it is produced either by chemical synthesis (N-acylation of phytosphingosine with stearic acid) or derived from natural plant sources such as soybeans or yeast via fermentation engineering. The phytosphingosine backbone can be obtained from yeast fermentation or plant lipid hydrolysis, with stearic acid (C18) then attached via an amide bond.
History
Phytosphingosine-based ceramides have been recognized as key components of the stratum corneum since ceramide research expanded in the 1980s–1990s. Ceramide NP (N-stearoyl-phytosphingosine) became a significant cosmetic ingredient as the ceramide class gained regulatory recognition and commercial traction. The CIR Expert Panel issued a safety assessment for ceramides used in cosmetics, concluding they are non-irritating and non-sensitizing at concentrations up to 10% in topical applications. Deficiency of phytosphingosine-based ceramides has been associated with conditions such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis.
Questions everyone asks
What is Stearoyl Phytosphingosine and how does it differ from other ceramides?
Stearoyl Phytosphingosine is also called Ceramide NP or Ceramide 3. It is a phytoceramide made of a phytosphingosine base linked to an 18-carbon stearic acid chain. Unlike ceramides with a sphingosine base, it contains a phytosphingosine (4-hydroxy sphinganine) backbone, which is also found naturall
What does Stearoyl Phytosphingosine do for skin?
It integrates into the skin's outer lipid barrier, helping to restore and strengthen intercellular adhesion, reduce moisture loss, and calm irritation. Research suggests it can suppress pro-inflammatory signals and protect skin against surfactant-induced irritation.
Is Stearoyl Phytosphingosine safe for sensitive skin?
Yes. It is a skin-identical lipid that closely mimics naturally occurring ceramides. The CIR Expert Panel found ceramides in this class to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing at typical cosmetic use concentrations. Its use in products for sensitive and atopic skin is well established.
Where does Stearoyl Phytosphingosine come from?
It is found naturally in mammalian skin, yeast, and certain plants. For commercial cosmetic use, it is typically produced by chemical synthesis or fermentation-based extraction from plant or yeast sources.