What it is
This ingredient is a polymer made by crosslinking citric acid with the fatty alcohols stearyl alcohol and octyldodecanol, creating a branched, oil-soluble network. The structure gives it body and a cushiony, skin-conditioning feel, so it is used to thicken oil phases and structure sticks, balms, and creams. In mineral sunscreens it can help bind and disperse pigments such as zinc oxide while improving spreadability and skin feel.
Safety & warnings
Citrate ester emollients of this type are generally well tolerated and are not associated with notable sensitization. As a heavy, occlusive-feeling oil-phase material, very rich formulas may feel heavy on acne-prone skin, though the polymer itself is not flagged as a known comedogen.
Origin & sourcing
Synthetic. It is made by esterifying and crosslinking citric acid with stearyl alcohol and octyldodecanol.
Questions everyone asks
What does this crosspolymer do in a mineral sunscreen?
It structures the oil phase, helps bind and disperse mineral pigments, and adds a smooth, cushiony emollient feel.
Is it used in stick sunscreens?
Yes. Its thickening and binding behavior makes it well suited to sticks and balms as well as lotions.