Thymus Serpillum Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract — INCI reference

What it is

Thymus Serpillum Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract is derived from the aerial parts — flowers, leaves, and stems — of Thymus serpyllum (wild thyme), a low-growing aromatic plant in the Lamiaceae family native to Europe and Asia. The extract is rich in phenolic compounds including flavonoids such as luteolin and apigenin, phenolic acids such as rosmarinic and caffeic acid, and essential oil components including thymol and carvacrol. These constituents confer antioxidant activity through free-radical scavenging, as well as antimicrobial properties relevant to cosmetic preservation and deodorant formulations. The extract is also cited for potential skin-brightening effects through inhibition of melanin transport, and for skin-firming and anti-inflammatory actions. It appears in sheet masks, serums, creams, hair care products, and deodorants. CAS number 84776-98-7 applies to the closely related Thymus serpyllum extract; the flower/leaf/stem multi-part form encompasses the full aerial herb.

Safety & warnings

Generally regarded as safe at cosmetic use levels; no contraindications or adverse effects are documented in the published literature reviewed. FDA GRAS status applies to thyme as a food ingredient. As with all botanical extracts containing essential oils (particularly thymol and carvacrol), concentrated or neat forms may cause skin or mucous membrane irritation in sensitive individuals. Individuals with known sensitivity to Lamiaceae family plants should perform a patch test. No comedogenicity concerns have been identified.

Origin & sourcing

Extracted from the flowers, leaves, and stems of Thymus serpyllum L. (wild thyme), a perennial subshrub native to the Palearctic region of Europe and Asia. The plant grows on sandy heaths, rocky outcrops, and thin-soil environments. Extraction is performed using solvents; the extract contains essential oils (thymol, carvacrol, gamma-terpinene, p-cymene, linalool) along with non-volatile flavonoids, phenolic acids, triterpenes, and tannins.

History

Thymus serpyllum has been used medicinally since antiquity in ancient Egypt, Greece, and Rome for respiratory, digestive, and wound-care applications. European Pharmacopoeia standards specify minimum essential oil content and phenol composition for the herb. The ingredient is registered in EU CosIng (entry 92529 for Thymus serpyllum extract) with skin conditioning as its primary cosmetic function.

Questions everyone asks

What plant does this extract come from?

It comes from Thymus serpyllum, commonly known as wild thyme, creeping thyme, or mother-of-thyme — a low-growing aromatic herb in the mint family (Lamiaceae) native to Europe and Asia.

What does this ingredient do in skincare products?

It primarily acts as a skin conditioner. It also contributes antioxidant activity from its phenolic compounds (rosmarinic acid, flavonoids) and antimicrobial properties from thymol and carvacrol, making it useful in deodorants and products targeting blemish-prone skin.

Is this the same as common thyme extract?

No. Thymus serpyllum (wild thyme) is a different species from Thymus vulgaris (common culinary thyme). Both share similar key constituents such as thymol and carvacrol, but their essential oil profiles and flavonoid compositions differ by species and geographic origin.

Is this ingredient safe for sensitive skin?

The published literature reports no significant safety concerns at cosmetic concentrations, and the ingredient is generally well tolerated. However, people with sensitivity to other Lamiaceae herbs (lavender, rosemary, mint) or to thymol should patch-test products containing this extract.