Tri (Polyglyceryl-3/Lauryl) Hydrogenated Trilinoleate — INCI reference

What it is

Tri(Polyglyceryl-3/Lauryl) Hydrogenated Trilinoleate is a mixed ester formed by reacting trilinoleic acid (a C54 trimer fatty acid) with polyglycerin-3 and lauryl alcohol, then hydrogenating the linoleate moieties for improved oxidative stability. It functions as a highly efficient non-ionic water-in-oil emulsifier effective at use levels of 1–3%, eliminating the need for co-emulsifiers. The ingredient is compatible with a broad range of cosmetic oils and actives, and supports diverse sensory profiles from light fluid textures to rich creams. It is 100% bio-based, plant-derived, vegan, and certified to RSPO MBAL and USDA BioPreferred standards. Applications include facial skincare, body care, after-sun products, antiperspirants, scalp treatments, and color cosmetics. It is free of ethylene oxide/propylene oxide, preservatives, EDTA, BHT, and BHA. CAS: 2236064-25-6; FDA UNII: NJS99G5Z44.

Safety & warnings

No significant safety concerns identified in available regulatory databases. EWG Skin Deep rates this ingredient with a low hazard score. It does not appear on EWG restricted or unacceptable lists. No known allergen flags. The hydrogenated fatty acid structure reduces potential for oxidative degradation compared to unsaturated analogs. Suitable for sensitive skin according to available information. Not inherently biodegradable per Croda product data.

Origin & sourcing

Produced by esterification of trilinoleic acid (a trimer of linoleic acid derived from plant oils such as sunflower or safflower) with polyglycerin-3 and lauryl alcohol, followed by catalytic hydrogenation to saturate the fatty acid double bonds. The resulting ingredient is 100% plant-derived and renewable, manufactured by Croda (England) under RSPO mass-balance certified supply-chain conditions.

History

Croda introduced Cithrol PGTL as a PEG-free, 100% bio-based alternative to conventional PEG-based water-in-oil emulsifiers. The substance was registered in the NIH NCATS GSRS database (UNII: NJS99G5Z44) with a record creation date of April 2, 2025. It was listed in the EU CosIng database under the INCI name Tri (Polyglyceryl-3/Lauryl) Hydrogenated Trilinoleate with assigned COSMILE ID 24435.

Questions everyone asks

What makes Tri(Polyglyceryl-3/Lauryl) Hydrogenated Trilinoleate different from PEG-based emulsifiers?

It is a PEG-free, 100% bio-based, plant-derived emulsifier. Unlike ethoxylated (PEG) emulsifiers, it contains no ethylene oxide or propylene oxide residues and is suitable for clean-label and vegan formulations.

What type of emulsion does this ingredient stabilize?

It is a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsifier, meaning it helps disperse water droplets within an oil continuous phase, which is common in rich creams, sunscreens, and anhydrous-feel formulations.

At what concentration is it typically used?

Cithrol PGTL (the trade name) is recommended at 1–3% in a formulation and can function without additional co-emulsifiers, making it efficient at low use levels.

Is this ingredient safe for all skin types?

Available safety databases including EWG Skin Deep classify it as low hazard. No known irritant, sensitizer, or comedogenic concerns are documented, and it is considered suitable for sensitive skin.